Winter Vehicle Prep Guide

All-seasons are called "all-seasons" but they're garbage in real winter conditions. Don't care what the salesman told you when you bought the car.

• Get proper winter tires - look for the mountain/snowflake symbol
• Minimum 5mm tread depth (honestly, replace at 6mm)
• Install all four, not just two - this isn't 1987
• Book early - we're swamped by mid-October

Batteries lose about 60% of their strength when it's -20°C out. If your battery's sketchy in October, it'll be dead in January - guaranteed.

• We'll do a proper load test (takes 10 mins, usually free)
• Check terminals for corrosion - that white crusty stuff kills batteries
• Battery over 4 years old? Just replace it, seriously
• Clean & tighten all connections

You've got a block heater. Great. But when's the last time you checked if it actually works? Parking lot outlets are sketchy too.

• Test the cord - rodents love chewing these in summer
• Check the plug end for burn marks or damage
• Make sure the element itself isn't corroded
• We can install a new one if yours is toast

Winter driving means you're gonna be using your brakes a lot more. Ice, snow, idiots who can't drive - you need brakes that actually work.

• Pad thickness check (under 3mm? replace 'em)
• Rotor condition - warped rotors are sketchy on ice
• Brake fluid flush if it's been 3+ years
• Caliper operation & hardware inspection

Wrong antifreeze ratio and your engine block can crack. That's a $5000+ mistake from a $2 problem.

• Coolant tested to -40°C minimum (we use a refractometer)
• Windshield washer fluid rated for -40°C (not that summer stuff)
• Engine oil - synthetic flows better in cold
• Power steering fluid check

Road salt is brutal. It'll eat through your vehicle faster than you think. I've seen frames rust through in 7-8 years without protection.

• Oil-based undercoating (not rubberized - it traps moisture)
• Annual treatment recommended
• Cavity spray for door panels & frame rails
• Clean undercarriage first - salt from last year needs to go

Can't see = can't drive. Pretty straightforward. Winter wipers are designed different than summer ones.

• Winter wiper blades (rubber boot prevents ice buildup)
• All exterior lights working - you need to be seen
• Headlight restoration if they're foggy
• Check that your defroster actually works

That check engine light you've been ignoring? Cold weather makes problems worse. Small issues become big issues real fast in winter.

• Full system scan with professional equipment
• Check for pending codes (problems about to happen)
• Sensor health - cold kills weak sensors
• Peace of mind before the brutal cold hits

Hope for the best, prepare for the worst. I've had customers stuck on Stoney Trail for 6 hours during bad storms. Be ready.

• Jumper cables or battery booster pack
• Blanket, gloves, warm hat (stuff you'll actually wear)
• Flashlight with extra batteries
• Ice scraper, snow brush, small shovel
• Snacks & water (yes, even in winter)
• First aid kit & phone charger

Winter's hard on vehicles. Salt, cold starts, potholes - it all adds up. Schedule your spring inspection now while you're thinking about it.

• We get slammed in April - book early for better times
• Spring tire changeover needs scheduling too
• Undercarriage wash to get rid of salt buildup
• Check for winter damage before it gets worse